Thanks Juliano - really interested t hear what effect this has
C-HR Soundproofing - a small and cheap project
So, after complaining several times that I find the C-HR too noisy, today I found a free hour to play and possibly test some insulation. A couple of weeks ago I bought self-adhesive waterproofing bitumen strip, protected with sheet of aluminium (1.5m2 for 8.80 GBP):
![Ingredient Fluid Drink Gas Liquid]()
Since the time was very limited, I decided to go with the right side of the boot. Started by stripping the interior of the boot - easy task with only 3 10mm bolts from the luggage hooks. Everything is on clips which just need to be pulled lightly. Too bad I did not start taking pictures from here, but there are diagrams how to do it in the Rear Parking Sensors Installation Manual available in this topic. Now the pictures.
Stripped right side of the boot with one sheet already placed for testing, but not rolled yet. You can see the factory soundproofing, the roll with the bitumen strip and the roll I used to stick it to the car:
![Automotive tire Hood Automotive design Motor vehicle Automotive exterior]()
Focus on the fender - no soundproofing neither on the wheel arch, nor on the fender itself:
![Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design Plant Vehicle]()
Inside after first two sheets of insulation:
![Hood Window Automotive lighting Automotive design Motor vehicle]()
20 minutes later and advancing (already getting dark):
![Hood Automotive tire Engineering Auto part Electric blue]()
Finished in the dark with the right side of the boot covered:
![Automotive lighting Hood Motor vehicle Building Engineering]()
Next steps are to finish the boot and the doors for which I will use rubber-based sheets. On top of this insulation I will most probably put a locally produced carpet under-felt.
When there is again some warm weather and free time, To be continued...
Since the time was very limited, I decided to go with the right side of the boot. Started by stripping the interior of the boot - easy task with only 3 10mm bolts from the luggage hooks. Everything is on clips which just need to be pulled lightly. Too bad I did not start taking pictures from here, but there are diagrams how to do it in the Rear Parking Sensors Installation Manual available in this topic. Now the pictures.
Stripped right side of the boot with one sheet already placed for testing, but not rolled yet. You can see the factory soundproofing, the roll with the bitumen strip and the roll I used to stick it to the car:
Focus on the fender - no soundproofing neither on the wheel arch, nor on the fender itself:
Inside after first two sheets of insulation:
20 minutes later and advancing (already getting dark):
Finished in the dark with the right side of the boot covered:
Next steps are to finish the boot and the doors for which I will use rubber-based sheets. On top of this insulation I will most probably put a locally produced carpet under-felt.
When there is again some warm weather and free time, To be continued...
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You won't hear anyGarry said:
^See what I did here?
So, time for an update. Yesterday the weather was very nice and warm, so after installing the chrome trims from AliExpress I decided to move to the soundproofing of the doors. The boot is almost completed. This is becoming a short guide, but here is the truth about our C-HRs and their insulation.
With the driver's door (LHD) being closest to me, it was the obvious choice for first attempt. It all starts with the removal of the button panel. It is being held by 6 clips and it just pops up when pulled upwards:
![Automotive tire Bumper Fixture Automotive exterior Vehicle door]()
Next step is to unscrew the three screws holding the door panel. They are located behind the door knob and below the buttons panel we just popped:
![Car Hood Light Vehicle Grille]()
After the screws are gone, the panel pops out just by pulling it. You can start from the bottom to the sides until it drops in your hands. You need to hold it because the door wires and the cable for the LED ambient light are still attached. All of them are easily disconnected and reconnected again. Once the panel is removed, I had a pleasant surprise - instead of using the usual nylon foil, Toyota closed the servicing openings with two tightly fixed plastic panels:
![Hood Automotive tire Trunk Motor vehicle Automotive exterior]()
The photo was taken during re-assembly and has vibrodamping tape on the inner door panel.
The second surprise is that the non-JBL speakers are riveted and their replacement requires drilling:
![Automotive tire Audio equipment Carbon Motor vehicle Gas]()
The third surprise was the worst and probably the main reason for the wind and external noise complaints. The outer door has no vibro-damping material. None. Just a bare sheet of metal, glued to the rods inside, but the glue itself was already compromised and was no longer doing its job. Did not take picture of this, but this is how it looks after I added the bitumen tape:
![Hood Wood Automotive lighting Road surface Asphalt]()
![Hood Vehicle Car Automotive tire Motor vehicle]()
Covered around 80% of the outer door with the stuff and put everything back. The door is now completely different - after driving for about 50km I can confirm that the road noise was coming from the rest of the doors and from the wheel arches. No noise from the driver's door. Furthermore, the sound from the speaker improved significantly although it dies below 40Hz.
I made a short video of the difference before-after when you knock on the doors. Just remember - the car is left hand drive:
With the driver's door (LHD) being closest to me, it was the obvious choice for first attempt. It all starts with the removal of the button panel. It is being held by 6 clips and it just pops up when pulled upwards:
Next step is to unscrew the three screws holding the door panel. They are located behind the door knob and below the buttons panel we just popped:
After the screws are gone, the panel pops out just by pulling it. You can start from the bottom to the sides until it drops in your hands. You need to hold it because the door wires and the cable for the LED ambient light are still attached. All of them are easily disconnected and reconnected again. Once the panel is removed, I had a pleasant surprise - instead of using the usual nylon foil, Toyota closed the servicing openings with two tightly fixed plastic panels:
The photo was taken during re-assembly and has vibrodamping tape on the inner door panel.
The second surprise is that the non-JBL speakers are riveted and their replacement requires drilling:
The third surprise was the worst and probably the main reason for the wind and external noise complaints. The outer door has no vibro-damping material. None. Just a bare sheet of metal, glued to the rods inside, but the glue itself was already compromised and was no longer doing its job. Did not take picture of this, but this is how it looks after I added the bitumen tape:
Covered around 80% of the outer door with the stuff and put everything back. The door is now completely different - after driving for about 50km I can confirm that the road noise was coming from the rest of the doors and from the wheel arches. No noise from the driver's door. Furthermore, the sound from the speaker improved significantly although it dies below 40Hz.
I made a short video of the difference before-after when you knock on the doors. Just remember - the car is left hand drive:
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Used the existing holes and a roller. Today finished also the front passenger door and one of the rear ones. In addition I finally found sound dampener of my preference - it is an expanded foam soaked with fireproof material and very, very nice for sound insulation. Here it is called FireX with thickness of 20mm and for only 10.50€ per square meter. Bought 3 sq.m. which should be sufficient for all doors and the boot. Here are some pictures:mjvdzwet said:
The rear door panels have 2 additional screws near the door handle:
Bare door with the nasty nylon and sticky, dirty glue of some sort:
Door with added vibro- and noise- deadener, ready for the door panel to be installed:
The panel itself:
And with added sound deadener, freshly cut from the roll underneath:
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The project is now complete.
All four doors and the boot are vibro- and soundproofed following the steps for the rear door. The C-HR is now a different car and feels much more solid and expensive, just like a Lexus. All external sounds are much quieter and distant, the sound of the non-JBL system is almost perfect - all "hollow bass" is gone, mids and highs are clear. Even the engine is now distant and subtle when revving. I am sure if I put foam at the firewall it will dissapear.
And because I am thick enough, I did not measure the sound levels before. Now I will need to ask my dealer for a C-HR test-drive and compare before/after noise and sounds.
Cost of the project and links to similar materials in U.K.:
2 rolls of bitumen self-adhesive tape (3 sq.m.) - £17.40
4 sq.m. non-flammable acoustic foam 20mm. - £34.61
Hard roller - £13
Total: £61 and three full days, most of which spent in learning how not to do it. :lol:
All four doors and the boot are vibro- and soundproofed following the steps for the rear door. The C-HR is now a different car and feels much more solid and expensive, just like a Lexus. All external sounds are much quieter and distant, the sound of the non-JBL system is almost perfect - all "hollow bass" is gone, mids and highs are clear. Even the engine is now distant and subtle when revving. I am sure if I put foam at the firewall it will dissapear.
And because I am thick enough, I did not measure the sound levels before. Now I will need to ask my dealer for a C-HR test-drive and compare before/after noise and sounds.
Cost of the project and links to similar materials in U.K.:
2 rolls of bitumen self-adhesive tape (3 sq.m.) - £17.40
4 sq.m. non-flammable acoustic foam 20mm. - £34.61
Hard roller - £13
Total: £61 and three full days, most of which spent in learning how not to do it. :lol:
Great idea..
I measured today on good tarmac 90km/h Ear level
74db almost 5db more than my 2015 mondeo.
Application thinks its a vacuum cleaner
I measured today on good tarmac 90km/h Ear level
74db almost 5db more than my 2015 mondeo.
Application thinks its a vacuum cleaner
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not sure where Toyota get their figures from but taken from my toyota web site, seems to be louder when not moving :?
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